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Introduction to How a Safari Works
When you hear the word, safari, scenes from old movies might flash through your head. The classic scene: Khaki-clad hunters -- accompanied by large numbers of bearers carrying equipment and supplies, a local guide and dreams of a fierce trophy to hang on their walls -- trekking through the wilds of Africa in search of lions, elephants and other exotic creatures. Some parts of that century-old scenario still apply today. For example, people on safari continue to wear the traditional safari "uniform" (there's a good reason why they do!), they still use local guides to help them find wildlife and they still camp out at night. But since the last quarter of the 20th century, safaris have been less an occasion for hunting and more an adventure for tourists to view and photograph big game in Africa's rich national parks and reserves.More recently, the travel industry has expanded the meaning of the word safari to include journeys and expeditions not necessarily related to the search for wildlife. For example, there are safaris by camel in Egypt, safaris into Australia's famed outback and adventure safaris in Alaska. But the most popular kind of safari -- the kind that most people still see as the ultimate adventure -- continues to involve exotic animals and spending time out in Africa's unique landscape. In this edition of How Stuff Works, we'll take a close look at the African safari. How does it work? Where do safaris go? What kind of animals can be seen and how close can you get to them? What kind of transportation, equipment, preparation is needed? When is the best time to go, and how much does it cost? So, jambo! (That's a friendly Swahili greeting) -- sit back and enjoy this cyber-safari!
What Types of African Safaris Are Available Today?
Safaris make great family vacations although most companies have a minimum age (usually 8 or 9). While there are all kinds of variations on the safari theme (safaris by elephant, camels, ponies, bicycle, hot air balloons and on foot), there are basically three types of organized vehicle safaris:- Permanent camp -- On these safaris, you are based in a permanent tented camp or lodge from which you experience game walks and drives and even hot air balloon safaris during the day (especially in the morning and late afternoon, when the animals are most active). Most of the national parks have ideally-situated lodges and/or permanent tent "hotels," where visitors can eat, sleep and relax with all the comforts of home with some gourmet meals thrown in. (Obviously, this type of safari is considerably more expensive than most camping safaris. We'll talk more about cost later.)
- Mobile permanent camp -- In this case, you visit several different camps and lodges, traveling from one location to the next via Land Rover, six- to eight-seater minibuses with roof hatches or open-sided trucks or by air in light aircraft.
- Mobile -- On a mobile camping safari, you stay in a temporary camp each night. These camping safaris often cater to budget travelers who don't mind roughing it a bit (no flush toilets or running water) in exchange for the chance of a hippo or an elephant to wander through their camp at night. Another advantage is that you'll probably find yourself with travelers from the four corners of the globe. However, the quality of accommodations runs the gamut from basic to ultra luxurious with 30-foot tents, showers, bathrooms, furniture and silver service.
Where Are the Best Places for an African Safari and What Animals Can Be Seen There?
The countries that provide the best opportunities to view wildlife are primarily in the eastern and southern regions of Africa. Kenya, probably the most progressive African nation in terms of economic and tourism infrastructure, is the country most famous for safaris, but neighboring Tanzania, the home of majestic Mount Kilimanjaro, is equally rich in wildlife and safari opportunities. South Africa, Swaziland, Zimbabwe, Botswana and Zambia are also rich in bird- and wildlife and offer a wide range of safaris to public and private reserves. (Runner-up: Gorilla-tracking trips in Uganda are rapidly gaining popularity among tourists.)
 Map of Africa |
Kenya
National parks in Kenya are more visited than those in Tanzania or Zambia and are especially good for visitors who want a short, accessible and inexpensive safari. The main bases from which to take a safari in Kenya are Nairobi, a major city with excellent air connections to the rest of Africa and the world, and Mombasa on the east coast. Kenya's most popular wildlife sanctuaries -- Masai Mara (western Kenya), Amboseli (southern Kenya) and Tsavo (Kenya's largest national park and divided into Tsavo East and Tsavo West) -- are terrific places for seeing the animals the hunters described as the "big five" -- the lion, the buffalo, the elephant, the rhinoceros and the leopard. And don't forget about other fascinating animals, such as wildebeests (also known as gnus), zebras and giraffes. Bird life is equally diverse and includes the highly visible and colorful flamingoes as well as ostriches, vultures, cormorants and eagles.
Kenya's most endangered species is the black rhino, which has been ravaged by poachers over the years. Although there are still few black rhinos in the wild, major conservation efforts have its numbers once again on the rise. Rhino sanctuaries have been established in Tsavo and Lake Nakuru national parks. Although the elephant isn't technically endangered, large numbers are killed each year by poachers. (Those numbers fell considerably after the international ban on ivory in 1989.)
You'll find the largest concentrations of bird life on the Rift Valley lakes during January and February, which is the main tourist season and pretty much guaranteed to be hot and dry. Animals also tend to congregate more around water courses in wildlife parks as other water sources dry up, so the viewing is also good for that reason. However, one of the most spectacular events can be seen during the still-dry "shoulder season" from June to September: This is when the annual wildebeest migration from neighboring Tanzania's Serengeti National Park brings close to 2 million wildebeest in search of grassland into Kenya's Masai Mara National Reserve. (Take a look at these unusual creatures!)
Tanzania
Although Tanzania can't match Kenya's strong economy, it offers equally beautiful wildlife reserves, including the famous Serengeti National Park and the Ngorongoro park, which is located in the crater of an extinct volcano. Other sights include naturalist Jane Goodall's chimpanzee sanctuary in the tiny Gombe Stream National Park near the Borundi border. (You don't really need an organized tour here and you can actually mingle with the chimps!)
Visitors describe Serengeti, located in northeastern Tanzania (contiguous with the Masai Mara reserve) as a magical place where you can see millions of hoofed animals -- zebra, antelope, gazelle and wildebeest. The park's rolling savannah plains make spotting wildlife easy, too. Farther afield, the Selous Game Reserve in the southern region of the country is probably the world's largest game reserve with one of the highest concentrations of hippos, elephants (reportedly more than 100,000!), buffalos and crocodiles on earth. Unlike some of Kenya's bustling national parks, Selous offers vast, untouched wilderness. Mt. Kilimanjaro National Park is lush rainforest where wildlife viewing takes backseat to the spectacle of Africa's highest peak. Arusha National Park is one of Tanzania's smallest but most beautiful national parks. It's also one of the few parks you're allowed to walk in (accompanied by a ranger, of course).
Arusha is the safari capital of Tanzania and many, many companies offer a variety of packages departing from that city. (Be careful who you do business with -- Arusha is known as a gathering place for fly-by-night companies looking for gullible tourists. More about choosing and planning for a safari later!) To get to Selous and parks near it, you'll need to depart from Dar es Salaam.
South Africa
Most of the large game in South Africa is concentrated in its well-organized national parks, particularly the largest and most famous, Kruger National Park. Kruger's rest camps are built within protected enclosures, its roads are good and it's easy to tour in a private car as well as in organized groups. (Some tourists find the crowds of visitors -- you need to book ahead especially around holidays! -- and tarmac roads here a little too civilized. If you like your safari a little wilder, you might want to visit some of the private reserves outside Kruger.)
Home to the last substantial populations of black and white rhinos (with horns intact) and to rapidly growing numbers of the African elephant, South Africa boasts significant numbers of the "big five" and also the lesser known "little five" -- the ant lion, the buffalo weaver (huge colonies of this bird live in woven grass cities), the rhinoceros beetle, the elephant shrew and the leopard tortoise. South Africa also boasts 900 bird species, including the world's largest bird (the ostrich) and largest flying bird (the Kori Bustard) and some of the most colorful and beautiful birds, including the sunbird and the ever-present flamingo.
Swaziland
Small Swaziland, one of Africa's monarchies, has very interesting national parks. These include Mkhaya Game Reserve, which is home to some of the black and white rhinos the region has fought so hard to protect, and Hlane Royal National Park, which is located near the former royal hunting grounds and which brought lions back in 1994. Also worth mentioning is Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary in the Equlwini Valley. It's one of the few places where you can see wildlife on foot, on horseback and from a bicycle.
Botswana
Since Botswana is a little more off the beaten track, its incredible national parks and game viewing tend to be a little more expensive than in east Africa. Despite its growing tourism industry, Botswana is relatively uncrowded. Two-thirds of the country is covered by the grassy, bush-covered sands of the Kalahari Desert. Surprisingly, those sparse grasses support some of the largest herds of game on the African continent.
Among the best national parks in Botswana are the Chobe National Park, which has a lively and curious population of baboons, who greet visitors at the park's entrance. Most exciting is Chobe's elephant population (estimated at around 100,000), which is among the world's largest surviving continuous elephant populations. The migratory Chobe elephant (part of the Kalahari group) has the largest body of all living elephants. Four-wheel drive rigs are necessary here, since deep sand in some spots can be treacherous, and it's best to avoid the Chobe River area during heavy rains from January to March.
Botswana is also home to Gemsbok National Park, its oldest and most remote game reserve. The park forms Africa's first trans-frontier park with the Kalahari Gemsbok National Park in South Africa, allowing for migration and free movement and creating a vast ecosystem relatively free of human influence. Gemsbok has huge herds of gemsbok (an antelope with sharp, slender horns) and other antelope, like the eland, as well as the famous black-maned lion.
The Moremi Wildlife Reserve is regarded by many as the most beautiful game park in southern Africa, and the Central Kalahari Game Reserve, set up in 1961, is the largest game reserve in the world. The 52,800 sq.km. reserve (it's larger than Switzerland!), located in the center of Botswana and characterized by huge open plains, old riverbeds and salt pans, was formerly home to the Basarwa people. (Encouraged by the government, they have moved -- some unhappily -- to settlements where modern facilities, schools and health care are more accessible.) Viewing of animals, including giraffes, brown hyenas, warthogs, wild dogs, cheetahs, lions and leopards, is best between December and April, when they tend to gather in the valleys and pans.
Zimbabwe
Like South Africa, Zimbabwe draws a lot of tourists because it is accessible and easy to visit, so tour and safari prices are generally lower than in Botswana and Zambia. This country offers a range of spectacular scenery, from the world-famous Victoria Falls, the 1,700 meter-wide waterfalls that plunges deep into the gorge of the Zambezi River, to the beautiful Matopos National Park, with its eerie granite landscape and exotic wildlife. Near Victoria Falls is the unique Hwange National Park, which was set aside for the purpose of conserving wildlife in its natural habitat. In this park are more than 100 different animal species -- including large herds of elephants -- and 400 bird species.
Zambia
Zambia, a little farther off the beaten path than Zimbabwe, offers some of the best safaris in Africa, because of the excellent game viewing in national parks unspoiled by tourism. The South Luangwa National Park, where it's said walking safaris originated, offers an intense concentration of wildlife around the Luanga River and its ox-bow lagoons. Visitors to this park have reported seeing 30 to 70 hippos in the river at one time! The only "big five" species missing is the white rhinoceros, which was hunted to extinction. (Zambia's only remaining rhinos are found in Mosi-O-Tunya Zoological Park at Victoria Falls.)
Zambia's largest (about the size of Wales!) and oldest park is Kafue National Park, where large prides, or companies, of lions can be found. Lower Zambezi National Park is the country's newest wilderness park. It offers unique viewing opportunities since an escarpment along the northern end of the valley acts as a physical barrier to most animals. This means you might see large herds of elephants at the river's edge.
Map of Africa
What's the Best Way to See the Animals?
Your mantra while on any kind of safari is "quietly, calmly, slowly." It goes without saying that -- unless you're an expert -- you'll be most likely to have close encounters with wildlife, as well as more interesting conversations, if you travel with an expert guide, who knows where the animals are and all about their habits and behavior.Your safari guide will make sure you know the rules. But if you're visiting a national park on your own, here are a few tips from the Kenya Tourism Office:
- Viewing -- Generally speaking, the best time for game drives is early morning (6:30 to 9 a.m.), when animals are often feeding, and again in late afternoon (around 3 p.m., after the heat of the day). Always drive slowly and keep your eyes focused on bushes and tall grass. When you spot an animal, do not stop suddenly! Slow down and pull up until you reach the safest distance and then stop your engine. To get the best photographs, refrain from sticking your head through the roof hatch or the car window! Just adjust your equipment slowly until you are in the correct position. (If you see skittish hyenas, elands or rhinos, take special care -- they generally run at the first sight of an approaching vehicle. If the animals appear uneasy, stop, turn off your engine and be quiet and still. Even camera clicking may set them off!
- Speed -- If you're driving in a park, keep your speed down. Not only does this protect animals who might jump across the road unexpectedly, it also improves your chances of seeing elusive animals like leopards, who might be hidden behind bushes. Obviously, animals have the right of way on these roads.
- Short Cuts -- Driving off the road to get closer to animals is a bad idea! You'll disturb the animals' breeding and feeding habits and destroy vegetation in the process.
- Ambushes -- Do not surround animals at their kill with your car engine on and your cameras in action! Some animals hunt by day and if you scare them away, they and their young may go without eating for several days. Remember, too, that you should NEVER get out of your vehicle except at official camps, self-guided nature trails or game observation points. Animals, who are comfortable with passing vehicles, may become aggressive with a person on foot. (Lions are especially protective if their cubs are nearby!)
- Food -- Do not feed the wild animals. It may make them sick or cause them to attack in search of more food.
How Much Does a Safari Cost? How Do I Choose One?
The adage, "you get what you pay for," probably holds true here. There is a safari priced for just about everybody, but there are major differences in accommodations, services, transportation and food. It's important that you consider how much "roughin' it" you're willing to do before you plan your safari. Whether you're part of an organized tour or are interested in a custom tour for you and your family will also affect the pricetag. Generally speaking, a budget safari (participatory camping, backpacking, basic group overland) can cost as little as $75 to $125 per person per day. In the $125 to $250 per person per day range, you might stay in three- and four-star lodges, have full service camping and some flight time. If you can pay between $250 and $500 per person per day, you can stay in small, remote, five-star lodges and luxury camps and travel more by plane (it's less tiring and offers spectacular views!). Other factors that up the price are exotic modes of travel, such as by elephant or hot air balloon and special cultural experiences, such as visiting a bush home, will be more expensive. And don't forget airfare to Africa, which isn't necessarily included in your safari package. Unless you get a fantastic deal or your safari package includes a private charter, round-trip coach airfare from the United States to Africa (a whopping 17 hours flight time from the East Coast and more from Los Angeles!) will run more than $1,000 per person. (There are numerous national parks that allow individual vehicles to enter -- for a fee, of course. However, for a multi-night safari at several sites, few experts recommend going it on your own.)Do yourself a favor and find a travel agent who specializes in Africa travel and tourism. (Most travel agencies have someone who handles this kind of adventure travel.) The travel agent will be aware of the reputable and not-so-reputable safari companies, current prices and conditions in Africa that might affect your trip. And if you are interested in seeing some of Africa's east coast and some of the Indian Ocean islands, such as the gorgeous Seychelles, ask the travel agent about a cruise in Africa. Most lines offer an optional five-day safari out of Nairobi before or after the cruise.
When Should I Go?
Generally, the times to avoid are the rainy seasons in each country. The climate in Kenya and Tanzania is generally moderate with cool nights and highs of around 80 degrees Fahrenheit. The heaviest rains fall in east Africa in April and May, and the light rains fall in November and December. In southern Africa, the rainy season starts in December and goes through March. The exception is South Africa, where the best months for safari are from June to October.
What Do I Take on a Safari?
As with all international travel, you'll need a passport and the appropriate visitor's visa. (With the exception of South Africa, Zimbabwe and Botswana, all African nations require visas. These are different from one country to another, so ask your travel agent or safari company how to apply or check your destination country on this U.S. State Department site.) Most African countries do require some inoculations, depending on where you're coming from and where you've traveled most recently. Check with a local travel clinic, which can provide computer printouts of required shots (a yellow fever vaccination is probably on that list) and make sure you get them on time. You'll probably also need malarial prophylactics, so ask your doctor about that, too. Before you go, make sure your personal health insurance is in good order.Here's a quick list of things you'll need for almost any kind of safari:
- Duffle bags -- They're easier to load into cars when moving camp.
- Comfortable clothes -- Pack reasonable quantities of cotton shirts, shorts, jeans and light-weight wool socks, a sweater or windbreaker for the evenings, walking shoes and light sandals for camp, a hat and plenty of sun block. Traditional khaki, green and brown "safari outfits," sold everywhere in Africa, are especially good because they allow wearers to blend in with the scenery and because they're cotton, they breathe and can be easily washed and dried.
- Cameras -- Experts recommend using a camera with a zoom of 70 to 300 (even higher if you're an avid birdwatcher). Film is very expensive in Africa, so you should bring plenty from home -- some experts say 40 rolls of 36 exposures of ASA 400 is a good rule of thumb. Although some professional photographers prefer to use lower speed film, faster film is good for getting shots of moving animals. A video camera will enable you to film with less light and to pick up the unique sounds of Africa. Most safari companies can recharge your batteries from their vehicles.
- Binoculars -- A must for a safari! Any good pair will do.
- Water bottle
- Flashlight
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