Highlights: Wickaninnish Inn

•The Wickaninnish Inn offers spectactular views of the wild Pacific shores of Vancouver Island’s west coast in British Columbia.

•Resort offers a recipe for romance with its remote and secluded location, couples’ treatments in the Mobil Four-Star Ancient Cedars Spa, luxurious amenities and fireplace-equipped guest rooms

•Spectacular ocean views and dining at the Pointe Restaurant

•Helpful concierge able to advise on everything from dinner reservations and car rentals to whale-watching tours and fishing trips

•Ecologically-conscious building design utilizes abundant natural materials from the area

•Outdoor activities include hiking, beachcombing, boating, fishing, and “storm watching” in winter

Amenities: Wickaninnish Inn

• 75 rooms, 3 story. Closed 7-10 days in January. Pets accepted, some restrictions. Check-in 4 pm, check-out Noon. High-speed Internet access. Restaurant, bar. Fitness room, fitness classes available, spa. Beach. Business center. Credit cards accepted.

General Impressions: Wickaninnish Inn

This Relais & Chateau property is built upon rugged rocks near the small fishing town of Tofino, British Columbia and a visit to Wickaninnish Inn, is a true getaway from the daily grind.

Here on the fringes of an old-growth temperate rainforest, strolling along beautiful Chesterman Beach, I felt in touch with nature. No city lights dim the constellations, and it’s a treat to star-gaze. But this is a rain forest, so stars don’t always show and a favorite winter pastime is storm watching. Come prepared for the wet stuff,and for beach-combing among sun-bleached driftwood.

The inn comprises two buildings: the 44-guest-room Pointe Building completed in 1996, and the Beach Building (opened in 2003), containing 20 deluxe guest rooms and 11 suites, of which five are two-level lofts. One is the crème-de-la-crème Canopy Suite, built high in the forest on the top floor. The Lookout Library and the Driftwood Lounge are also located in this building.

It’s a romantic getaway, with the luxurious spa, fine restaurant, fireplaces in the guest rooms, and spectacular views. But it’s also a fun place for families. There are no organized children’s programs, but nearby activities -- hiking, cycling, boating, whale watching, and exploring the beach -- would keep children of, say, 8 and older quite happy. The use of natural materials inside and out of the inn achieves the goal to “bring nature indoors.” When it was built, tall trees were kept within 4 feet of guest rooms, and trees that were felled were used in the construction and in the décor.

Local artisans were employed to carve unique touches on entry doors, with a tip of the hat to the local First Nation (the Saanich Indian band) whose designs are used in the loft suites.

(+) A great place for romantic, relaxing, and family getaways
(-) Its remote situation makes it something of a challenge to reach

Guest Services: Wickaninnish Inn

The reservation service was excellent, and I was helped with spa and dinner reservations and transportation, all confirmed by e-mail or fax. The agent recounted room types and rates, gave me a thorough overview of the property, and was enthusiastic and polite.

A hotel shuttle greeted us at Tofino Airport, and the driver provided bottled water. At the inn, we were greeted warmly, and asked about our journey. The helpful front desk clerk told us about local activities, offered dinner recommendations, and reconfirmed my spa appointments. The check-in experience was fast and efficient, and we were escorted to our room and given a helpful orientation.

Hotel telephone operators were knowledgeable and polite, (consistently using my name,) and my requested wake-up call was on time and personalized with time, temperature, and weather information.

The concierge was also helpful and proactive, thinking ahead for me --especially when it came to flight connections. He provided maps and brochures, and tracked me down with to give me my rental car confirmation. So it was a bit disappointing to get a voice mail instead of a staff member when I called later for dinner suggestions. My call was returned in 12 minutes, however, and the concierge suggested three restaurants.

Daily housekeeping gets got mixed reviews: the room had a fresh feel and look when I re-entered it, and all amenities were replaced, with toiletries neatly arranged, shoes paired, clothes folded over the chair, and my belongings laid out in orderly fashion. However, it appeared no vacuuming had been done and laundry bags were not replaced. Turndown service was provided on the first evening, but not on the second, when neither the room, the sink, nor my clothes looked as if they had been touched.

I requested an item from housekeeping and was told they’d send it up. But some 15 minutes later, they called to apologize -- they couldn’t accommodate my request, although they offered to pick up the item from town.

Laundry service was good, and staff arrived promptly after my call for pick-up. Items promised for that afternoon were waiting for me in a plastic laundry bag. The quality of cleaning and pressing was excellent, and some personal items left in pockets were returned in good condition.

At check-out, we were acknowledged at the front desk but had to wait a few minutes before we were assisted, and the check-out process took a while. We were offered an extra copy of the bill (placed in a folder) and tax forms for our return to the United States.

(+) A warm and welcoming arrival, fitting the spectacular setting
(-) Inconsistent housekeeping service, and less attention at departure

Guest Rooms: Wickaninnish Inn

It’s unusual that a hotel room becomes an integral part of the destination, but such is the case at the Wickaninnish Inn. Eight-foot-high windows provide panoramic ocean views and I could touch the trees from my balcony. I’m told that, in the “storm season” (November to February), you can feel saltwater spray from the huge waves.

My travel partner is a light sleeper, but his worries about crashing surf keeping him awake were put to rest with the good soundproofing. This is “rustic luxury,” I reminded myself, checking the room, which was, overall, clean, and comfortable. The spacious bathroom was immaculate with slate tiles, a huge soaking tub with spectacular ocean views, and amenities of exceptional quality, elegantly and thoughtfully placed. The bed was plush and inviting, but linens were not luxurious, although Frette towels were featured in the bathroom. The closet was spacious, but not well lit. Grooming areas are generous, allowing two people to use them at the same time.

The fireplace, leather chairs, and décor in pine, olive, and green tones give a lodge-like feel, and rock candles and traditional Hudson’s Bay blankets are unique and lovely touches.

(+) Spectacular views including ones from the soaker tub

Facilities & Activities: Wickaninnish Inn

Teh Mobil Four-Star Ancient Cedars Spa is a major draw, and practitioners are well qualified with a minimum of 1,000 hours training in their field. The spa menu includes couples’ treatments, an important element in a romantic getaway.

There are plenty of outdoor activities in the surrounding area, including some challenging hikes.

But if you want a full-range fitness center, you won’t find it here. The “fitness center” is more of a “fitness room,” albeit comfortable for its small size. I was able to get a basic cardio and weight workout on high-quality, professional-grade equipment, but if more than two guests use the facility at the same time, it’s crowded. It’s not staffed, nor equipped with locker rooms or restrooms (nearest restrooms are in the lounge area), and has no steam room or sauna. The room , however, is clean, well organized, and well maintained.

(+) Spa is an important element of a romantic and/or relaxing getaway
(-) Fitness center is small, with no classes or training sessions

Dining & Lounge: Wickaninnish Inn

Don’t miss dinner at The Pointe restaurant. This restaurant serves locally inspired dishes, such as seared wild BC salmon and pan seared venison loin. The cuisine at this restaurant is only surpassed by the panoramic, 360-degree view from the dining room. The walls of The Pointe are floor-to-ceiling windows that overlook the Pacific Ocean.

At breakfast the following morning, we were greeted, seated immediately, and offered beverages. Our server was helpful and knowledgeable about the menu items, of which there was a good variety. But that morning the menu did not include information for calorie- and nutritionally-conscious guests.

Downsides included the length of time it took to bring our breakfasts; the annoyance of watching guests who arrived after us being served before us; and toast served cold.

We did enjoy the Driftwood Coffee Lounge, with its feature bar made from a giant piece of driftwood. Step through the doors, and you’re a mere 40 paces from the beach.

The On Rocks Bar & Lounge, adjacent to The Pointe Restaurant, features attentive service, good drinks, and an extensive menu. No bar snacks are offered, though.

When the chance to enjoy room service presented itself, my call was transferred to The Pointe Restaurant, where my order was taken by the pleasant hostess, who could only answer one of my three questions and had to put me on “hold” while she found the answers.

Our beverages arrived first, enabling us to enjoy them on the terrace while we waited for our meals, which followed in short order. The food was appetizing and full of flavor, but the tray was not conveniently set up, plastic was left covering the food, and my dessert was missing.

(+) Food at The Pointe Restaurant was excellent
(-) Some service was inconsistent

Business Services: Wickaninnish Inn

This property is not aimed at the business traveler, though it would be a delightful venue for -- and has the ability to cater to -- small corporate retreats. It has one larger multipurpose conference room that can accommodate up to 50 people, and one self-contained boardroom, designed to accommodate a variety of meeting styles for smaller groups up to 20 people.

All guest rooms are wired for cable Internet access, while several public areas offer wireless Internet access. If you don’t bring your computer, the inn has two computer centers that you can use complimentary.

(+) Good location for small meeting groups