Beginning in the 1990s, experienced climbers like Rob Hall began organizing group tours, which made Everest accessible for the first time to less experienced people. Guided tours will involve an expedition leader, other guides and a Sherpa support team. There are pros and cons to joining a guided tour, but if you are considering it, experts recommend that you climb another, less difficult mountain with them first.

Even "solo" climbers often hire Sherpas to assist with the climb, and hiring a cook for Camp II can greatly improve the quality of your experience.

Cost
The average cost of a fully guided journey up Everest from the south side is $65,000. A fully guided climb from the north costs somewhat less, averaging around $40,000. These costs do not typically include personal gear, international airfare, or insurance, all of which can add thousands to the trip. Starting from scratch, the required gear would run at least $8,000. The figure is closer to $15,000 with the addition of items like a laptop and digital camera.

Sherpa 101

Image courtesy Alan Arnette
A Saturday morning in Namche Bazaar, the major trading center in the Everest region and the gateway to Everest for many climbers.

Many people associate the term "Sherpa" (pronounced "shar-wa") with the job of Everest porter. However, Sherpa actually means "easterners" or "east-people," and refers to clans that came from Tibet and settled the eastern reaches of Nepal about 500 years ago. Traditionally, the Sherpa people were agriculturalists and traders, but beginning in the 1920s they were hired as porters for mountaineering expeditions. Known for dedication to their work and superior physiological adaptations to high altitudes, Sherpas became integral to the success of Everest ventures and climbers increasingly employed them for assistance.

Approximately 30,000 Sherpas live in Nepal, and around 3000 of them live in the Khumbu region on the south side of Everest. Since the 1950s, tourism has become the dominant source of employment and income in the area. Many Sherpas, as well as people from other ethnic groups, work as part of the climbing and tourism industry.

While the Sherpa people retain their Buddhist religion and many of their traditional practices, this shift in the local economy and way of life has necessarily meant changes in the Sherpa culture. Among these, there has been a shift from regarding climbing the mountain as blasphemous, to regarding it as a source of economic opportunity and pride.

Sherpas hold many impressive Everest records, including most times summitted for men and women, quickest ascent, quickest descent, most time spent on top and youngest climber to reach the summit.